Decoding Cosmetic Labels
From Latin, English, sandglasses, percentages... But what does it all mean?
5 things to know to decipher ingredients
- The ingredient list is written in its INCI (International Nomenclature of Cosmetic Ingredient) form. INCI is the international language for cosmetic composition that corresponds to English or Latin. Example: The INCI for water is Aqua (Water)
1 Raw material = 1 INCI
- Ingredients are listed in descending order of their composition (the first on the list is the major raw material of the cosmetic)
- The last ingredients on the list are allergens (if any). Example: Linalool, geraniol, limonene...
- An ingredient can hide several raw materials (and thus generate several INCIs). Example: Sea fennel oily macerate = Rapeseed oil + Sea Fennel
- The ** next to the ingredients indicate if the ingredients are of natural origin and the * indicate those from organic farming.
💡 In liquid products, water is often the major component, an essential ingredient (no water, no foam). However, we already have water when we shower. The alternative: solid products or anhydrous products to which you add water yourself. Nevertheless, make sure to use demineralized water when choosing the second option to avoid contaminating your products.
Deciphering percentages
"99% Natural origin " means that 99% of the cosmetic's ingredients are from plants or minerals. A high percentage is important, however, natural origin does not mean that the ingredient is environmentally friendly.
"86% Organic " means that 86% of the ingredients are certified organic farming and therefore of natural origin. In this percentage, minerals such as water and salt are excluded: they are not processed and therefore cannot be organic.
Deciphering logos
"VEGAN LOGO" 0% of ingredients of animal origin
"CRUELTY FREE LOGO": The cosmetic has not been tested on animals (only on consenting humans 😉)
"RECYCLABLE LOGO": The packaging is recyclable (It should therefore be put in the recycling bin if you decide to dispose of it)
The open cream jar indicates the period after opening (PAO) during which the product is safe. It is often expressed in months (12M = To be used within 12 months of opening).
Date when the product expires even without having been opened
Cosmos Natural logo: The product contains at least 95% naturally derived ingredients and is certified by an approved organization (Cosmecert, Ecocert, or Bureau Veritas)
Cosmos Organic logo: The product contains at least 95% naturally derived ingredients + at least 20% organic ingredients (only 10% for rinse-off products), and is certified by an approved organization
Cosmebio logo: The cosmetic is at least cosmos natural, and the company has joined the COSMEBIO association
Our advice
To find out what raw material is hidden behind the INCI, Route Mandarine recommends the INCI Beauty application. This application will tell you if it is authorized in organic, if it contains allergens and how the raw material is obtained. (https://incibeauty.com)
If you want to know if your cosmetic is safe without looking at each ingredient, applications like INCI BEAUTY or YUKA rate cosmetics.
Our ultimate advice: do not hesitate to ask competent professionals to describe the labels to you at the time of purchase
An example of decoding by Route Mandarine
June 16, 2022, Marjorie
